By Steve Sedlak

Our lunch party of three disembarked from Amy’s Ford Escape after a dizzying spin through Dinkytown. It was around one in the afternoon on a Saturday with a home game going on in the new TCF Bank Stadium. The hordes of maroon and gold clad U of M fans fell away from our car before we got lost, crossed over into Minneapolis proper, and then attempted to make a u-turn in front of an oncoming bus. The bus driver seemed altogether unaffected by our maneuver-and all in all, the setting of our foodie adventure brought a new poignancy to the model name of Amy’s Ford. We had escaped from the football hordes and hurtling mass transit vehicles into a bastion of stylish 20th century home-y-ness: the Red Stag Supper Club.We trekked across the gravel parking lot beneath the kindly watch of a huge stag coated in red paint. Inside, we found what he so faithfully protected: a wooden dining hall complete with piano, old-fashioned bar and an assortment of odd mementos framed on the wall. My favorite was the Andy Warhol tomato soup can sundress. On our table sat an array of artfully done menus with the acronym “RSS” in silver calligraphy embossed on their covers.

After the dining room calmed me down I ordered a cup of coffee and a turkey club sandwich with French fries. Without a doubt there was some sort of cheese tomfoolery afoot in my French fries – but these culinary shenanigans were of a variety that I could wholeheartedly endorse. Without a doubt they were some of the best fries I have ever consumed.

While the atmosphere of the Supper Club is homey, the clientele are undeniably chic. Don’t come to the Red Stag dressed schlumpy-like the way I did. If I could pick a place to take my date, this would be it. The Supper Club is a little haven of American cultural nostalgia with very contemporary sensibilities: the Red Stag is LEED certified and keeps most of its cooking local and organic.

Lunch and brunch prices are reasonable. Resistance is futile. Go.

The Red Stag Supper Club is at 509 1st Ave. NE, Minneapolis. Hours are 11 a.m. – 2 a.m. Monday – Friday, 9 a.m. – 2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Check the web site (redstagsupperclub.com) for live music and events.